Zinnowitz 2009

„In den Dünen sitzen,

nichts sehen als Sonne,

Nichts fühlen als Wärme,

nichts hören als die Brandung,

zwischen zwei Herzschlägen glauben:

Nun ist Frieden.“ (G. Kunert)

 

 

Zeit und Ort der Abfassung des Berichts

Kururlaub im Ostsseebad Zinnowitz auf Usedom aufgrund  meiner Tagebuchaufzeichnungen vom September 2009.  Erst im Sommer darauf bei meinem zweiten Kuraufenthalt hatte ich mein Laptop dabei und konnte diese Niederschrift vollenden. 

 

 

Vorausgehende Überlegungen

Wie kam es zu meiner Kur an der Ostsee in Zinnowitz?

Letztes Jahr hatte ich eine schwere Stirnhöhlenoperation durchzustehen.(Pansinusitis!) Hinzukam die Begradigung der Nase und Durchstoßen der Nebenhöhlen. Ich verließ das Krankenhaus(HNO- Klinik in Erlangen) nach einem vierwöchigen Aufenthalt mit der dringenden Empfehlung, demnächst eine Kur an der Küste vorzunehmen. Der eine Professor meinte, die Nordsee sei für die Nase das Beste. Der andere im gleichen Hause wiederum war der Ansicht, sie sei eben doch zu rauh für mich, ich müsste ja auch meine Bronchien berücksichtigen. Deshalb sei die Ostsee ideal, aber das Wetter müsse passen. Im äußersten Fall sei Norditalien z. B. Toscana zu empfehlen, auf keinen Fall Sizilien. Nach dem Krankenhausaufenthalt bekam ich zwar besser Luft durch die Nase als vorher, aber nun fingen die Bronchien an zu rebellieren und ich bekam einige Monate hindurch ganz heftige  Asthmaanfälle, die mich Tag und Nacht peinigten. Plötzlich wie sie kamen, waren sie auch wieder weg. Dennoch bestand Handlungsbedarf. Nun hatte ich immer noch keine konkrete Empfehlung, aber auch kein Geld. Denn ich hatte mich bei meinem 40-jährigen Priesterjubiläum schwer verschulden müssen. Vor 12 oder 13 Jahren hatte ich mit den Bamberger Seelsorgern an einer Studienwoche „Auf den Spuren des hl. Bischofs Otto in Pommern“ teilgenommen. Wir waren in Greifswald als Gäste der evangelischen Landeskirche untergebracht und unternahmen von hier aus einen Tagesausflug auch auf die Insel Usedom. So kamen wir auch in das Ostseebad Zinnowitz mit dem Ottoheim. Ich erinnerte mich, dass ich dort sehr gut und leicht atmen konnte. Als im Frühjahr im Amtsblatt für Urlaubsvertretungen  in Zinnowitz geworben wurde, stand mein Entschluss fest. Ich rief sogleich an, aber man sagte mir, ich möge später noch mal anfragen. Nun folgte bei mir eine sehr unsichere Zeit, bedingt durch mein Springerdasein als Rentner für Urlaubsvertretungen. So konnte ich erst Ende Juli für die zweite Septemberhälfte verbindlich planen. Doch jetzt bekam ich keinen Platz   mehr im Ottoheim. Kurz entschlossen ging ich zum Reisebüro und erkundigte mich nach einem anderen Quartier. Das gelang auch. Auch löste ich gleichzeitig die Fahrkarte. Das war auch gut so, denn beinahe wäre auch jetzt wiederum etwas inzwischen gekommen, bedingt durch die Sterbebegleitung einer krebskranken Frau, die ich bei meiner Urlaubsvertretung begonnen hatte.

 

 

Reise nach Zinnowitz

Meine Schwester Elfriede brachte mich am 15. Sept. 2009 mit dem Auto zum Bahnhof nach Bamberg. Die Abfahrt mit dem ECE erfolgte mit zehnminütiger Verspätung. Ich hatte den Wagen Nr. 21 zugewiesen bekommen mit Platz 55. Da mir der Platz wenig behagte und ich ja die Zeit nicht nur zum Lesen, sondern auch zum Schreiben nutzen wollte und reichlich Platz vorhanden war, machte ich mich auf den   Plätzen am Tisch in der Mitte des Wagens breit. Die Zeit verging bei meinen Griechisch- Übungen wie im Flug. Um 13.30 trafen wir in Berlin – Gesundbrunnen ein. Ich hatte noch 20´ Zeit zum Umsteigen.  Das war gar nicht so schwierig, denn der Express nach Strahlsund fuhr gleich nebenan los. Bei Züssow sollte ich dann in die Bäderbahn umsteigen, die über Wolgast,  Zinnowitz bis Swinemünde fährt. Auch im Express  hatte ich einen Platz reservieren lassen. Ich betrat also den Wagen Nr. 9 und wollte dann meinen Platz Nr. 155 einnehmen. Doch der war besetzt von einer gut gebauten Dame, die sich über beide Plätze breitgemacht hatte und vor sich hindöste. Gegenüber auf der anderen Seite war noch ein Platz frei, neben einem sehr schlanken Gebilde. Die Frau gestattete mir neben ihr Platz zu nehmen. Wir kamen recht bald ins Gespräch. Mir fiel zwar auf, dass sie in kurzen Abständen jeweils ein SMS erhielt, aber weil ich links etwas steif bin –  in Folge meines Sturzes vor einem Jahr-, übersah ich das Schildchen auf ihrer Jacke. Als ich ihr mitteilte, dass ich nach Zinnowitz möchte, sagte sie, dass auch sie dort hinführe, ja dass sie dort wohne und bei der Polizei arbeite. Nun stellte auch ich mich als Pfarrer i. R. vor. Wir unterhielten uns über verschiedene Themen. Spannend wurde es, als wir sogar einen gemeinsamen Bekannten ausmachten:  den ehemaligen Bürgermeister von Zinnowitz Dr. Krug, dessen Frau aus meiner ehemaligen Gemeinde(Pommersfelden) stammte. Ich hatte sie seinerzeit getraut und auch ihre drei Kinder getauft. Bürgermeister Dr. Krug sei immer noch in guter Erinnerung, – so Frau Schmelzer – da er sich für viele Vorhaben eingesetzt hatte, und so manche Projekte angeschoben habe. Er wäre auch vermutlich gerne hier geblieben, hätte man seine hauptamtliche Stelle nicht in eine ehrenamtliche umgewandelt. Weiterhin erzählte mir meine Nachbarin von dem alten Wickinger –Fest der „Vineta“, das ich bei meinem ersten Besuch hier vor Jahren am Rande mitbekommen hatte. Es geht zurück auf die Sage  von der versunkenen Stadt. Zuweilen jedoch hörte man immer noch die Glocken der Stadt.

Wir fuhren durch die spätsommerliche Landschaft. Die weite Ebene ist nur begrenzt von Waldgürtel und Baumreihen entlang der Straßen.

 

Nach einiger Zeit machte mir die Polizistin ein ganz tolles Angebot: „Meine Eltern kommen mich in Züssow abholen und wir haben noch einen Platz im Auto frei. Wenn Sie wollen, dürfen sie mit uns mitfahren.“ Und ob ich wollte? Bei meinem vielen Gepäck, war das für mich  eine riesengroße Erleichterung. Das bedeutete auch einen Zeitvorteil von mindestens einer Stunde. Mit dem Auto fuhren wir bei Wolgast mit seinem Operettenhaus und Paulskirche über den Peenestrom auf die Insel Usedom.

 

Der Name kommt vom slawischen „Utznam“, was soviel heißt wie “An der Mündung“ liegend.  In wenigen Minuten erreichten wir Zinnowitz. Auf dem Papier, das ich aus meinem Ordner vor der Abfahrt herausgenommen hatte, stand „Pension Moll“. Die Eltern der Polizistin brachten mich auch dorthin. Denn sie wohnten ganz in der Nähe vor der Kirche. Die  Beamtin als gute Menschenkennerin ging mit mir in die Pension hinein und meinte noch: „Mal sehen, ob es klappt?” Als ich im Haus vorsprach, wusste kein Mensch etwas von meiner Buchung oder Reservierung. Erst jetzt dämmerte es mir, dass das Papier, das ich in Händen hielt, nur die Bestätigung der ersten Anfrage durch das Reisebüro war. Weil die Pension darauf nicht reagierte hatte, suchte  mir das Reisebüro  einen Platz in einem  Strandhotel. Ich bekam auch die Buchung ausgehändigt, hatte sie jedoch nicht dabei , lediglich die Anfrage bei der Pension Moll. Inzwischen hatte ich die Sache vergessen. Erst jetzt tauchte in  meinem Hinterkopf die Bezeichnung: „Zinnowitzer Hof“ auf. Von einem solchen Hotel wusste die Kellnerin wiederum nichts. Was war geschehen? Ich hatte die zweite Bestätigung mit der tatsächlichen Reservierung wo anders hinterlegt und nicht bei den Fahrkarten abgeheftet.  In der Eile des Aufbruchs hatte ich nur das Abgeheftete mitgenommen und gar nicht angeschaut. So kam es zu dem Missverständnis. Jetzt war guter Rat teuer. Ich schaute auf die Uhr. Es war ung. 3/4- 5 Uhr. Mein rettender Anker ging von der Überlegung aus: Um die Zeit müsste mein Reisebüro  noch besetzt sein und ich tat instinktiv das einzig richtige. Ich rief mit dem Handy das Reisebüro in Höchstadt an. Ich hatte Glück, die Kollegin von Frau Ruppert schaute nach und nannte mir ein Strandpalais in der Dünenstraße, die Hausnummer sei unwichtig. Einer inneren Eingebung folgend, bestand ich jedoch darauf, dass sie mir auch die Hausnummer mitteilen möge. Erst nach einigem Suchen fand sie die und  gab mir die Hausnummer 10 durch. Das sollte für mich gleich von entscheidender Bedeutung werden. Als endlich das Taxi kam, brachte mich der Fahrer in das Strandpalais. Dort wusste man jedoch nichts von meiner Buchung und verlangte von mir die Bestätigung der Reservierung. Nach einigem Hin- und Her, kam ich auf die Hausnummer zu sprechen. Ich sagte: dass ich soeben mit meiner Agentur telefoniert hätte und man mir die Hausnummer 10 für die Dünenstraße durchgegeben hätte. Erst jetzt klärte sich das Missverständnis auf. Es gab noch ein zweites Strandhotel, das hier hatte die Hausnummer 11. Dort wiederum hieß es, dass die Zentrale Rezeption im Preußen Hof zu suchen sei. Hier wusste man dann auch von meiner Buchung bescheid. Ich atmete erleichtert auf,  bezahlte die Taxe für den Aufenthalt und eine Mitarbeiterin der Rezeption brachte mich zu meinem eigentlichen Aufenthaltsort: Das war nun tatsächlich der „Zinnowitzer Hof“, aber in der Dünenstraße 24. Das Problem war, dass es nur eine Rezeption für ung. 5 – 7 Hotels gibt, die alle vom „Preußenhof“ aus verwaltet werden. Das vorhergehende Hotel gehörte zu einer anderen Kette. Ich bekam das Zimmer und Schlüssel mit der Belegungsnummer 12. Es war ein schöner großer Raum – im imperialen Stil mit Balkon, Vorraum, Dusche mit Nasszelle und Küchennische. Noch am gleichen Abend besorgte ich mir im Edeka/Kaufland Wasser und das Wichtigste für den nächsten Tag und beehrte die Eltern mit einem bescheidenen Blümlein. Hier erfuhr ich, dass sie Schmelzer heißen.

Am anderen Tag ging ich auf die Suche nach dem Ottoheim. Es war ein ziemlich weiter Weg. Denn das kirchliche Haus der Erzdiözese  Berlin lag fast 1-1/2 Km von meinem Aufenthalt entfernt, in der Dr. Wachsmann-Straße 29. Im Hof traf ich auf eine Gruppe Senioren, die gerade auf den Bus zu einer Besichtungsfahrt warteten. Schwester Lucia von den Vöcklabrucker Franziskanerinnen, erteilte mir bereitwillig Auskünfte über die Gottesdienstordnung.  Zaghaft fragte ich  auch gleich, ob denn auch die Möglichkeit zum Mitzelebrieren  bestünde. Am darauffolgenden Tag, der ein Mittwoch war, hatte sie schon alles in der Sakristei vorbereitet  gehabt. Ich war beeindruckt! Dort lernte ich auch den Inselpfarrer Andreas Sommer kennen, der eigentlich in Heringsdorf wohnt und von dort stets rüber kommt.  Die Schwestern boten zusätzlich zu den 3 Messfeiern an Wochentagen jeweils auch ein Morgenlob(7.30)  und ein Abendlob (18.00) an. Das bereitete die andere Schwester vor, namens Agnes.  Sie vereinbarte  mit mir am Freitagabend eine Führung durch Haus und Anlage.

 

 

Rundgang durch  das St. Otto- Heim

Eine Frau aus Lübeck stiftete um 1900 auf halber Strecke zum Ottoheim in Berlin, auf Zinnowitz  ein Gasthaus, das als Kinderheilstätte eingerichtet werden sollte.  1914 wurde es fertig. Im darauf folgenden I. Weltkrieg richtete die Wehrmacht hierein Lazarett ein. Am 16. Januar 1916 kamen Breslauer Marienschwestern bzw. Ursulinnen hierher. Sie fanden sämtliche Scheiben eingeschlagen vor. Das Grundstück wurde von der Diözese ihnen übereignet. Sie betreuten und pflegten 40 bedürftige Kinder. Dazu errichteten sie Holzbaracken, in denen bald 300 Jugendliche Platz hatten. Sie standen vor der Alternative entweder ein Lazarett oder ein Kinderheim zu errichten. Im II. Weltkrieg gab es dann doch wieder hier ein Lazarett, später siedelten sie Waisenkinder an.  Das wurde von der DDR toleriert. Dennoch gab es Versuche das Haus aufzulösen. So kam 1963 eine Räumungsklage vom Landkreis Wolgast. Durch die Intervention des Bischofs beim Innenministerium beließ man das Haus jedoch und richtete es aus auf Kinderchorkurse ein. Mit Hilfe der Gemeinden betreuten die Schwestern jetzt Vorschulkinder und bis zu 300 Schüler außerhalb der Ferienzeit. Tätig waren hier 40 Schwestern mit ihrem Noviziat und  auch etliche Kindergärtnerinnen. Man stattette die Räume klinikmäßig aus.  Hier erfolgte ab nun die  Ausbildung von Gruppenleiterinnen, die dann nach Berlin gingen. Auch der Bischof verbrachte stets seinen Urlaub hier an der Küste. 1964 sind bei Schweißarbeiten die Baracken weggebrannt. Die Väter errichteten sie jedoch recht bald wieder. Dabei haben auch Jugendliche mit Hand angelegt. Nach der Wende haben  Erzbistum und Kassen die Kosten nicht mehr übernommen. Die Schwestern zogen sich zurück in ihr Mutterhaus und das Haus wurde 1994 vom Erzbistum zum Verkauf  freigegeben. Doch daraus wurde nichts.  2005 kamen zwei Schwestern von den Vöcklabrucker Franziskanerinnen: Schw. Lucia und Schw. Agnes. (Die Kongregation ist aus Oberösterreich)

 

Der Kirchenraum war schon 1916 errichtet, die Kirchenfenster sind erst 1996 fertig worden. Die Muttergottesfigur ist eine Kopie einer  Madonna aus dem 16. Jh. mit Türkenkopf zu ihren Füßen. Das  Hänge- Kreuz mit Korpus im Großen Saal stammt ebenfalls aus dem 16. Jh. Die Gemeindegottesdienste sind bis dahin im Pfarrhaus gefeiert worden, das sich ganz wo anders, in der Waldhausstraße befand. 2003 entsteht der Altar aus vielen Hundert von Abfällen. 2006 kam die Altarinsel hinzu und bei der gleichen Renovierung legte man den Fußboden aus Kalkplatten vom Meeresboden. Die 800 Katholiken aus der Gemeinde kamen aus den verschiedensten Gebieten. Erst 2004 ist Zinnowitz Pfarrort geworden. Im Dritten Reich formierte sich hier eine Widertandsbewegung „Ter Morchen“ . Pfr. Plonka ist von der GESTAPO ausgespäht worden. Durch den Anschluss Oberösterreichs unterlag das Land nicht mehr den Konkordatsbestimmungen. Mehrere wurden zwangsversetzt z.B. nach Stettin. Hier bildete sich ein aktiver Widerstandskreis Stelauer Kreis. Zusammen mit dem Ingenieur Hagen sind an einem Tag alle verhaftet worden, unter ihnen auch Pfr. Dr. Wachsmann . Seine Hinrichtung fand  in Brandenburg statt. Die Beisetzung erfolgte im Pfarrhof. Daran erinnert die Ter- Morchen- Straße mit Gedenkhaus. Nach dem Krieg  wandelten sich fast alle braune Gebiete in rote  und nach der Wende wieder umgekehrt. Ter Morchen ist  hingerichtet worden, wie auch alle anderen aus dem Kreis, außer Pfr. Plonka und Oberin Raphaela Falke. Die Gedenktafel außen ist verschwunden. Sie erinnerte an die Tochter, die vor EDEKA im Park 2006 überfahren worden war. 2005 entstand die Meditationskapelle außerhalb der Kirche. Im gleichen Jahr erfolgte die Generalsanierung. Seit 2005 bietet das Haus Exerzitien im Frühjahr und im Herbst an.

 

Bald erkannte ich, dass ich zwecks Versorgung ohne Fahrrad nicht auskomme. Ich hatte bei der Buchung nur Frühstück dabei, für das ich jeweils kleine rote Kärtchen erhalten hatte. Im Zinnowitzer Hof , gibt  es ein italienisches Restaurant: „Picolo mondo“. Hier konnte ich zu Mittag essen. Es gab sehr gute Speisen mit sämtlichen Leckerbissen der mediteranären Küche  und auch jeweils eine Suppe. Auch konnte ich Kinderportionen bestellen, die immer noch ausgiebig für eine einzelne Person waren. Bald jedoch war ich mit der für mich geeigneten Speisekarte durch.  Natürlich hätte ich hier auch Getränke jeder Art bekommen können und auch ein Abendessen. Aber ich musste mit meinem Geld sehr haushalten. Denn das Hotelzimmer kostete mich für die 12 Tage unf. 800 €.  So gelang es mir im Schnitt mit 10-12 €  beim Mittagessen auszukommen. Zwei freundliche Kellnerinnen, Frau Draß und Frau Ajeta,  bedienten die Gäste und überbrachten die Wünsche und Bestellungen an die Küche. Später suchte ich den direkten  Kontakt mit dem italienischen Koch namens Ivo, um mein Italienisch ein wenig zu üben. In der Küche half noch seine kroatische Frau Maritza. Morgens  zeigte ich Frau Ajeta oder Frau Draß die rote Essenskarte und sie fragte mich ganz mütterlich mit den Worten, mit denen sie auch ihre weiteren Gäste begrüßte: „Na, alles in Ordnung?“. Dieses „Na“  scheint mir für den Usedomer Landstrich irgendwie typisch zu sein. Im Speisesaal entdeckte ich also gleich einen wunderschönes Gedicht über den Dünensand: 

 

Dünensand

Einst kam die Woge und rollte an Land,

die erste von allen. Ein Körnchen Sand

ließ sie am Ufer sinken.

Das sah der Schwestern eine im Nah´n,

und sieh! Schon hat sie dasselbe getan,

mit ihr die andern, die flinken!

 

Drauf kam der Wind vom Meere herauf

und bließ die Körnchen alle zuhauf;

sie lagen geschichtet zum Hügel.

Nun bringen die Wogen manch ´tausend Jahr

Wohl Körnchen um Körnchen dem Ufer dar;

Der Wind regt seine Flügel.

 

Und siehe! Da hebt sich an brandender See

empor der Düne stattliche Höh:

aus Körnchen zusammengelesen.

Und fragst Du, wer also sie hat gelegt?

Das war, was Welle und Wind bewegt,

der Ewigkeit Pulschlag gewesen.“

 

W. Reepel

 

Fahrt nach Swinemünde, 21. September 2009

Die Fahrt unternahm ich nicht mit dem Schiff, sondern mit der Usedomer Bäder Bahn (UBB). So war ich in einer Stunde dort, mit dem Schiff hätte es mindestens 3 Stunden gebraucht. Die UBB besteht aus funkelnagelneuen Wagen und die Bahnhöfe entlang der Bäderstraße sind so schön hergerichtet wie nirgends sonst in Deutschland. Auch die Trassen und Gleise der Stecke sind vorbildlich instandgehalten. Man kann selbstverständlich auch sein Fahrrad mitnehmen. (Zusatzpreis 4 €) Sonst macht die Tageskarte 12 € aus. Damit kann man hin und auch zurück fahren. Die Bahnhöfe sind  zum Teil in Backseintechnik errichtet, was besonders in Ahlbeck zum Ausdruck kommt.

Wie eine Perlenkette reihen sich die einzelnen Seebäder und Feriendörfer dem Meeresufer entlang. Von Peenemünde bis Swinemünde erstreckt sich einer der schönsten und längsten Sandstrände über 45 Km. Nördlich von Zinnowitz liegt die Insel Ruge mit ihrem Leuchtturm.  Parallel zum Schienennetz verläuft die B 111, zuweilen kommen sich die beiden auf Tuchfühlung nahe, besonders bei der Engstelle. Bei Bad Zempin verengt sich die Insel auf 330 m (nach anderen Angaben 1,5 km) An mehreren Stellen konnte ich aus dem Zug den Strand der Ostsee sehen und andererseits das Achterwasser, das vom Peenestrom gespeist wird, der es auch mit dem Kleinen Haff verbindet. Die Insel weist zum Achterwasser hin drei Halbinseln auf. Es ist ein bewaldetes Gebiet zwischen Bazin und Swinemünde. Wegen seiner malerischen Schönheit trägt es die Bezeichnung: „Usedomer Schweiz“.  Die Seenlandschaft wird von üppigen Grünanlagen gesäumt. Es gibt insgesamt 14 Süßwasserseen, die vom Schmelzwasser gespeist sind.  Bei Bazin sieht man einen großen Binnensee seitlich der Fahrbahn. Insgesamt 280 Vogelarten zählt man auf der Insel. Die Mantelmöwe erreicht eine Flügelspannbreite von 1,60 und die Silbermöwe 1,35. Auch gibt es die Lachmöwe. Vom  Kormoran, der mehr Fische frisst als die Fischer fangen,  gibt es 14.000 Brutpaare. Die Zahl der Seeadler beläuft sich auf ung. 70 Vögel, davon 20 alte und 50 junge.  In den Gewässern schwimmt der Drei- Farben- Fisch. Als seltenes Gewächs gibt es hier die Stranddistel. Der Weißdorn ist überall anzutreffen.  Das Wasser der Ostsee weist einen Salzgehalt von nur 0,8 % auf.

Von Albeck-Grenze geht es fast nahtlos über nach Swinemünde. Beim Halt der UBB  in Swinemünde – es scheint nicht der eigentliche Bahnhof zu sein- warteten mehrere Kutschen und ein halbes Dutzend Taxis. Als ich noch nachdachte, ob ich nun den Weg rechts oder links nehmen sollte, sprach mich ein Taxifahrer an und erbot sich mich für 5 € bis zur Stadtmitte zu fahren. Da mir nur 1-1/2 Stunden zur Verfügung standen, sagte ich sofort zu und dem war auch gut so. Allein hätte ich mich wohl verlaufen. Daraufhin setzte der Taxifahrer – ein guter Psychologe – noch eins drauf. Er erklärte sich bereit mich mit 20 € durch die ganze Stadt und zu den wichtigsten Kirchen zu fahren und mich dann wieder zur UBB zurück zu bringen. Er sprach ziemlich gut deutsch. Die erste Kirche, zu der er mich brachte, war die ehemalige evangelische Christuskirche. Charakteristisch war ihr Turm . Die restliche Kirche flankierten 4 Ecktürme . Auch das Turmkreuz wies ein Blattmotiv auf, was sich von unten recht kunstvoll ansah. Von der nächsten ehemaligen evangelischen Kirche stand nur noch der Turm. Das Schiff ist im Krieg zerstört und nicht mehr wieder aufgebaut worden. Erst die vierte Kirche war von Anfang an eine katholische. Sie ist 1895 erbaut worden und verfügt über wunderschöne Buntfenster mit verschiedenen Motiven, aus der Welt des Meeres. So z. B.. Die Berufung der  Apostel als Menschenfischer, der Sturm auf dem See und Verklärung Christi, Durchzug durchs Rote Meer bei den Fenstern auf der Südseite. Vor der Kirche lag ein großer schwerer Anker mit Kreuz. Das Altarfenster der Aspis zeigte Maria als Meerstern. Die Kirche trug denn auch die lateinische Bezeichnung für Meerstern: „Stella maris“. Die dritte Kirche, an der wir vorbeikamen, war die Garnisonskirche. Sie glich eher einem großen Saal als einem Gotteshaus. Da nur der Vorraum geöffnet war, konnte ich aus dem Inneren nicht all zu viel mitbekommen. Auch erinnere ich mich nicht mehr an das Altarbild. Die 5. Kirche war ehemals eine evangelische Christuskirche, die jetzt von den Katholiken genutzt wird. In der Mitte hing ein Segelboot ung. 1-1/2 m lang. Die 6. Kirche war eine moderne Kirche mit zeltförmigen Turmaufsatz. Dazwischen befanden sich die zwei Glocken. Drei Fenster, die an die Bullaugen erinnerten, wie sie auf einem Schiff üblich sind, bestimmten die Fassade. Auch diese Kirche war nur im Vorraum zugänglich. Die 7. Kirche war ein kleiner moderner Bau.

Das Rathaus erinnerte mich an eine Zisterzienser- Kirche mit ihrem Dachreiter, in dem die Glocke der Turmuhr die Stunden schlug. Es war gerade 12.00 als wir dort ankamen. Vor dem Rathaus in der Parkanlage befindet sich ein Quellbrunnen mit einem Gedenkstein für die Marinesoldaten , die auf hoher See umgekommen sind. Es ist also gewissermaßen eine Art Kriegerdenkmal. Darüber sprudelt die Quelle, an der sich die Sperlinge laben. Das Rathaus blickt auf den Hafen hinab. Er scheint in der Mündung der Swine untergebracht zu sein, denn vom offenen Meer war nichts zu sehen.  Die Stadt zählt heute 50.000 Einwohner. Vor dem Krieg waren es 35.000. Der Bombenangriff 1945 zerstörte 80 % der Häuser. Damals hielten sich Zehntausend Flüchtlinge dort auf, so dass die Gesamtzahl der Menschen auf gut 100.000 anwuchs. Davon fanden mit Sicherheit zumindest 20.000 den Tod. Die wiederaufgebauten Stadtgebiete außen weisen keinen Bezug zur einstigen Altstadt auf. Es sind zwei Welten.  Auf der gesamten Insel Usedom soll  es 14 alte Kirchen geben.

Fahrt nach Peenemünde, 23. September 2009

Ich wollte ursprünglich zuerst nach Usedom und ein anderes mal nach Peenemünde. Mit diesem Vorsatz fuhr ich mit dem Rad zum Bahnhof. Am Schalter befand sich eine sehr freundliche junge Frau, die ein Kind erwartete. Sie riet mir von Usedom ab, da dieser Weg einen ganzen Tag erfordere. Man müsste über den Schmollensee und eine Verbindung mit einem Bahnbus sei ungewiss. Das erleichterte ganz wesentlich meine Entscheidung, denn so viel Zeit hatte ich diesmal nicht. Also führ ich nach Peenemünde. Nach nur einer Viertelstunde Bahnfahrt kam ich dort an. Ich ging einfach den Leuten nach und kam so auf das Gelände mit den Raketenversuchsstationen Ost und West. Zunächst bekamen wir einen Oberbunker zu sehen mit 2 m dicken Betonwänden. Auf dem Gelände stand eine Rampe auf der mit einem Förderband Kohle zur Energiegewinnung direkt vom Schiff gefördert wurde. Daneben standen verschiedene Raketen und Flugzeugtypen jüngeren Baudatums aus sowjetischen Beständen (Mig) Ein Besucher bemängelte mit Recht im Beschwerdebuch, dass man gerade hier kein einziges deutsches Flugzeug zeigte. Warum wohl? Handelt es sich um einfache Gedankenlosigkeit oder doch um ein Politikum?

Vor dem Ausstellungsgebäude stand ein Exemplar von der legendären V3. Damit gelang am 3. Oktober 1942 erstmals der Flug ins Weltall bzw. in die Zone der Schwerelosigkeit. Die Versuchsrakete von flüssigem Sauerstoff angetrieben, erreichte immerhin eine Höhe von 85 km und hatte eine Reichweite von 190 km. Nach diesem Durchbruch erfolgte die Fertigung in Serie. Ihre Einschläge wurden zum Schrecken wurden zum Schrecken der Bevölkerung Englands. Die erhoffte demoralisierende Wirkung blieb jedoch aus. Der militärische Nutzen des Geschosses war eh fragwürdig, weil man damit  noch keine Ziele genau anpeilen konnte. Nebenan sahen wir eine schräge Abschussrampe von 48 m Länge. Die Ausstellung selbst war in zwei Stockwerken untergebracht. Sie zeigte Fotos vom Abschuss und Einschlag der Raketen und wie man ihre Bahn überwachte. Werner Freiherr von Braun und der aus Siebenbürgen stammende Heinz Oberth waren die eigentlichen Erfinder. Sie verwirklichten, was Jule Vernes Romane in phantasievollen Zügen ausgemalt hatten. In Wirklichkeit gestaltete sich das Unternehmen als weitaus schwieriger. Unter anderem ging es um die Schaltstellen. Auch waren die Raketen leichtes Zielobjekt der alliierten Bomber. Schwierig war es auch die vielen Einzelversuche zu koordinieren  und dann die erfolgreichen voranzubringen.

Die Führung durch die Ausstellung ließ eine klare Richtung vermissen. Erst an den Schautafeln konnte man sich in etwa orientieren. Einen Teil des Hafens konnte ich auch Fotografieren. Auf jeden Fall legten hier mehr Schiffe an als im Hamburger Hafen. Auf dem Heimweg sah ich noch eine Kapelle der Versöhnung, die ich fotografierte. Auch gelang es mir noch Besorgungen zu machen.

Am Abend wohnte ich einer Filmvorführung über „Maria Magdalena“ bei im evangelischen Gemeindezentrum, das nicht bei der Kirche ist, sondern erst in der nächsten Seitenstraße(Bergstraße 12 ung. 150 m von der Kirche entfernt). MM kam ins Gespräch wegen des Films „Das Sakrileg“. Der jetzt gesehene Film jedoch ging von christlichen Vorstellungen aus. MM erinnert sich im Gespräch mit ihren Freundinnen über ihre Erlebnisse unterwegs mit Jesus und den Jüngern. Die Hauptperson spielte ihre Rolle gut. Manchmal jedoch gingen Szenen und Begebenheiten zu schnell vonstatten, wie z. B. die Taufe Jesu im Jordan, die Auferweckung der Jairustochter oder des Jungen Mannes von Nain. Der Übergang zwischen den einzelnen Szenen war m. M. nach etwas zu abrupt.  Die Herausforderung der beim Ehebruch ertappten Sünderin wirkte echt. Lediglich die Kreuzigung wirkte etwas unecht, desgleichen die Darstellung des Schmerzes der Mutter Maria.

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